When one thinks of gifts from other
cultures that carry with them great historical significance, one usually
doesn't think of food. In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan there is a food
delicacy that has gone ethnic to multi-ethnic and finally to regional. To
many people in the Upper Peninsula, the pasty is much more than food, it is an
identifying cultural mark that gives them their own identity. While it is
a source of great pride to this region, the pasty itself, especially its
ancient history is shrouded in mystery.
easiest way to describe a pasty, is a pot pie without the pot.
Nobody knows for sure where and when the
pasty originated. It's thought to have been invented when the preparation
of food became an art rather than roasting a hunk of meat on a stick. The
pasty came to the Upper Peninsula through Cornwall England. When tin
mining started going bad in England during the 1800's the Cornish miners immigrated
to America hoping to earn there fortunes in newly developing mines. No
one knows for sure
though whether the Cornish invented the pasty, or whether
they picked it up from some other group. Mrs. R.F. Ellis of
Cornwall insist that the
Cornish invented it and that it is a diminutive of the star
gazed pie, which is a type of pie baked with fish, such that the fish heads
stick out of the pie. Others think the Vikings may have brought the pasty
to the British Isles when they invaded. And another theory states that it
may have been derived from the Italian "pasta", since the Cornish
were considered to be great seamen.
the earliest known reference to the pasty contribute it to the Cornish.
From 1150 to 1190 a man by the name of Chretien de Troyes wrote several
Arthurian romances for the Countess of Champagne. In one of them, Eric
and Enide, it mentions pasties:
"Next Guivret opened a chest and took out two pasties.
"my friend," says he, "now try a little of these cold pasties
And you shall drink wine mixed with water...." " Both Guivret and
Eric came from various parts of what today is considered Cornwall.
are also mentioned in the Robin Hood ballads of the 1300's "Bred on chese,
butre and milk, pastees and flaunes." and "Thys knight
swolewed, in throte noght pering/ More then doth a pastay in onen
The pasty was not unique
to England by this time, a French Chronicler, Jean Froissart (1337-1414) wrote
"with botelles of wyne trusses at their sadelles, and pastyes of samonde,
troutes, and eyls, wrapped in towels" Today the French call the pasty,
tourtiere. The pasty has even shown up in a William Shakespeare
play. In the Merry Wives of Windsor (1600) "come, we have a hot pasty
the Cornish came to the copper mines of the Upper Peninsula, they brought with
them a lot of mining knowledge which the other ethnic groups did not
have. The other ethnic groups looked up to the Cornish and wanted to
emulate their mining successes. Many Cornish practices were then copied
by the other ethnic groups, including the pasty as the standard lunch for
miners. The pasty became popular with these other ethnic groups because
it was small, portable, was very filling, and could stay warm for 8-10
hours. Pasty rivalry occurred between the Finns, Swedes, Irish, Poles,
Germans, Scots, Italians and French with each group contributing something in
the way of seasoning and other ingredients. All groups agree that pasties
must contain two things, potatoes and onions.
The portability of the pasty not only made it easy to carry, but if it
should get cold it would be relatively easy to heat up. This was done by
putting the pasty on a shovel and holding it over a head-lamp candle.
Miners never ate a pasty with a fork, they
ate it end to end, and held it upright to keep the juices in. Since
entire Cornish families worked in mines and each member of the family wanted
different ingredients in the pasty, the Cornish wife would stamp the bottom
corner of each pasty with an initial. According to the Cornish Recipes
Ancient and Modern, "The true Cornish way to eat a pasty is to hold it in
the hand, and begin to bite it from the opposite end to the initial, so that,
should any of it be uneaten, it may be consumed later by its rightful
owner. And woe betide anyone who take's another person's
corner!" There was a superstition among the Cornish miner's that the
initial corner should not be eaten, instead it was dropped on the ground for
the mining gremlins to eat.
"gremlins" caused mischief in mines, causing accidents and mine
collapses, feeding them supposedly kept them out of trouble. There is
some truth to this rumor, because the early Cornish tin
mines had large amounts of arsenic, by not eating the corner which the miners
held, they kept themselves from consuming large amounts of arsenic.
pasty survived the collapse of mining because it became extremely popular with
the major ethnic group to remain after the mines closed, the Fins. In 1864
a small wave of Fins came to the UP, well after the Cornish were established,
when the big mining wave of Fins came 30 years later, they probably learned
pasty making from the older Fins, not the Cornish. The pasty resembles
the Finish foods, piiraat and kuuko, so when the new Fins saw their countrymen
carrying it in a pail, they thought that it was the Fins who invented the
pasty. Since there was a similar food in Finland, it was easier for the
new Fins to adopt it. During Finish "ethnic" celebrations the
pasty is often featured as a "Finnish" specialty.
pasty remains relatively unchanged today, a few places have put in healthier
vegetable shortening instead of lard, and a couple of other minor changes like
the cut of meat used. It's importance in this area can be seen at local
fund raisers for local groups and charities.
Local food businesses make and sell anywhere from 50 to 100 pasties
the cookbook Cornish Recipes Ancient and Modern, "It is said that the
Devil never crossed the Tamar into Cornwall on account of the well-known habit
of Cornish women of putting everything into a pasty, and that he was not
sufficiently courageous to risk such a fate! However, that may be, the
Cornish pasty, in its various forms, is a delectable dainty and deservedly
the 1890's a pasty actually started a mine fire. What happened is a miner
forgot about his meal warming on a shovel. The pasty eventually caught
fire (because of the high amounts of lard) and spread to the timber holding the